Hello!
As it turns out I can email from here no problem. The way it worked out, I am working with the Red Cross in Nyeri. I am working with internally displaced people but I am living with the eldest sister of Peter (the patriarch of the family in Ongata Rongai) on a shamba (farm) in a mud hut. Also living on the shamba are 3 of Peter and Aneta's nieces that Aneta is taking care of while they go to school. Aneta, 71, with some help from the girls (11, 13 and 16) runs the entire farm. She raises pretty much all of the food we eat: beans, corn, potatoes, bananas, other veggies, milk (from 3 cows). I've helped a little and am learning a lot. It's pretty amazing.
The next day, my first day with the Red Cross, was also amazing but in a different way. The Red Cross in this area does not have one huge camp with thousands of people. Since this is a mostly Kikuyu area and most of the violence is over and people feel safe traveling many Kikuyus are now coming here from other displacement camps because this is either where they have family or where they've been told they belong. Some of the displaced people are living in temporary shelters but many are living with extended family. Within my first hour at the Red Cross I was asked to counsel a young man who had lost his entire family in the violence in early January. My Kiswahili is not ready for counseling and he spoke little English so another staff came to translate. At first I felt ridiculous because I felt the translator could probably do the counseling as well or better than I could but in the end I think it was really positive that we were both there. His story was so terrible (burnt house, found his father decapitated, mother and sisters also killed) - you really have to wonder how people can do these things (although it's been proven over and over again). But he had started healing and I think he will be OK. All he wanted help with is getting a job so he can go on with his life. It's too bad jobs can't be donated. After we assisted him (the government does have a program set up for job assistance for the displaced) we left to load a truck full of supplies to take to two different displaced people distribution sites. There were about 200 people at the first site (well over 100 of them were children- playing soccer of course). It was a little chaotic- there was a bit to be desired as far as organization but in the end it was successful and people were very grateful. We then headed to the next site but we never made it because going up a hill we got stuck behind another truck that was stuck in the mud. We waited for about an hour (we didn't have room to turn around on the hill) while a caterpillar was fetched to help the truck out and by the time we would have been delivering the food it would have been getting dark and the Red Cross was worried that the people would be mugged and the much-needed food stolen. The other volunteers (all Kenyan) are very nice. Anyway I hope I can continue to be helpful. The land here is so gorgeous!
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
away to a displacement camp
Tomorrow I am leaving to go to a displacement camp to work. I will hopefully be there for about 2 weeks but I'm not really sure. I'm also thinking that I may not have internet access during that time and certainly not as frequently so don't be concerned if you don't hear from me. I will probably be placed in a camp at Nyeri but may be somewhere else. If anyone NEEDS to get a hold of me you can actually reach me on my cell here: 011-254-0711779792 (although you might not need to use that second 0.) If used with a calling card for Africa (obtained on the internet) it's probably not too too expensive (Dara, fruz :))
I will write as soon as I can.
Lied
I will write as soon as I can.
Lied
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
karaoke and cakes
Yesterday I was in the lab at the clinic with Joyce (the lab tech) and she was enthusiastically singing along to a song on the radio. So I asked her if there were karaoke places in Nairobi and she said, "Karaoke who?" About three weeks ago I found out that Kariuki (which sounds a lot like that beloved art form- Karaoke) is a traditional Kikuyu name.
My parents left on Sunday and it's sad not to have them around any more to talk to but I think the rest of my time here will continue to be wonderful. Yesterday was a taxing day. I was at the clinic, at the centre, on 2 home visits, at the doctor's with Mary and then we went to buy food. Yesterday was also hard because I had an awful conversation with someone at the clinic (a friend of Joyce's). I don't really want to recount it because I'll just get frustrated again. He was a bit anti-Western (which I can grasp) but he also used a lot of stereotypes (both for Americans and other cultural groups). Anyway.... in addition, sometimes when I'm called to do many things in one day I end up feeling as if I didn't get anything productive done. So today I went through more concrete tasks. I'm reading through a paper for one of the women at the house (Tabitha- who works and Gataka and around the house) for her SW degree so I finished looking through that this morning (it's on the effects of alcoholism on the orphans and vulnerable children at the centres), did my laundry, went through plans with Mary etc...
Oh the cakes. It's already starting to be funny instead of irritating- that's how stories are born I guess. So on Sat. night my dad and I were slated to make pizza again for the family. We also decided to make guacamole since the avocados here are delicious and plentiful. We dad was feeling under the weather the last few days he was here so mom and I went to get the groceries that needed to be purchased in the store and then I went with Tabitha to negotiate for the veggies at the market. Back at home we enlisted John to help us (he's really interested in learning how to make food- not a traditional interest for men here). It was tiring because we were making food for 10 people and all from scratch. Earlier in the day I had been asked to also make a cake for someone's granddaughter's birthday and had agreed. Because the kitchen is not big enough to make everything at once I thought I'd start the cake after dinner. At 9:30 we had finished eating and the woman who wanted the cake was back to pick it up. But since it wasn't ready, then she just stayed to watch me make it. I was a little tired and irritable at this point but set about making the cake. An hour later it tasted terrific but hadn't risen at all and looked a little puny and miserable. I felt bad about it not being so great but some of the cakes I've tasted here aren't so flavorful and at least it tasted good.... AND I was relieved to be done. Then the woman (who also works around the house most days) asked for another cake. I was pretty peeved but I decided it seemed the best thing to do. This cake (an hour later down the road) had risen fine but was a little burnt on the top because I couldn't get the top burner to go to a low setting. So I felt bad about that cake too AND THEN the woman told me she would make yet another cake in the morning and I could get up early and watch her. I (hopefully) politely declined. Not many people have ovens in this area so I thought that the reason they wanted me to make a cake is because her family didn't know how. But they just wanted to see how an American makes a cake. There is a happy ending because I attended the party and all cakes were enjoyed. Perhaps that story is a little boring but the whole event made me think of when I was in the Philippines and I made cookies with the house help there. Once we had finished Ruby Ann suggested we make another batch. This seemed silly to me and I explained that had we wanted to make more we could've doubled the batter. But that wasn't the point to her- the fun of it was the whole process of making the cookies and expediency didn't come into play at all.
On what I plan to do for the rest of my time: I wanted to work in a displacement camp if possible and it looks like I will be able to do that, hopefully by next week at the latest. I'm not quite sure where yet. My host family would like me to go to a camp in Nyeri where they are from (and where they probably feel they can keep an eye on me) but Nyeri also seems to be the hot spot of anti-western sentiment as they don't want to the U.S. or Britain to interfere with Kibaki's government. So there's a little more investigation to be done.
My parents left on Sunday and it's sad not to have them around any more to talk to but I think the rest of my time here will continue to be wonderful. Yesterday was a taxing day. I was at the clinic, at the centre, on 2 home visits, at the doctor's with Mary and then we went to buy food. Yesterday was also hard because I had an awful conversation with someone at the clinic (a friend of Joyce's). I don't really want to recount it because I'll just get frustrated again. He was a bit anti-Western (which I can grasp) but he also used a lot of stereotypes (both for Americans and other cultural groups). Anyway.... in addition, sometimes when I'm called to do many things in one day I end up feeling as if I didn't get anything productive done. So today I went through more concrete tasks. I'm reading through a paper for one of the women at the house (Tabitha- who works and Gataka and around the house) for her SW degree so I finished looking through that this morning (it's on the effects of alcoholism on the orphans and vulnerable children at the centres), did my laundry, went through plans with Mary etc...
Oh the cakes. It's already starting to be funny instead of irritating- that's how stories are born I guess. So on Sat. night my dad and I were slated to make pizza again for the family. We also decided to make guacamole since the avocados here are delicious and plentiful. We dad was feeling under the weather the last few days he was here so mom and I went to get the groceries that needed to be purchased in the store and then I went with Tabitha to negotiate for the veggies at the market. Back at home we enlisted John to help us (he's really interested in learning how to make food- not a traditional interest for men here). It was tiring because we were making food for 10 people and all from scratch. Earlier in the day I had been asked to also make a cake for someone's granddaughter's birthday and had agreed. Because the kitchen is not big enough to make everything at once I thought I'd start the cake after dinner. At 9:30 we had finished eating and the woman who wanted the cake was back to pick it up. But since it wasn't ready, then she just stayed to watch me make it. I was a little tired and irritable at this point but set about making the cake. An hour later it tasted terrific but hadn't risen at all and looked a little puny and miserable. I felt bad about it not being so great but some of the cakes I've tasted here aren't so flavorful and at least it tasted good.... AND I was relieved to be done. Then the woman (who also works around the house most days) asked for another cake. I was pretty peeved but I decided it seemed the best thing to do. This cake (an hour later down the road) had risen fine but was a little burnt on the top because I couldn't get the top burner to go to a low setting. So I felt bad about that cake too AND THEN the woman told me she would make yet another cake in the morning and I could get up early and watch her. I (hopefully) politely declined. Not many people have ovens in this area so I thought that the reason they wanted me to make a cake is because her family didn't know how. But they just wanted to see how an American makes a cake. There is a happy ending because I attended the party and all cakes were enjoyed. Perhaps that story is a little boring but the whole event made me think of when I was in the Philippines and I made cookies with the house help there. Once we had finished Ruby Ann suggested we make another batch. This seemed silly to me and I explained that had we wanted to make more we could've doubled the batter. But that wasn't the point to her- the fun of it was the whole process of making the cookies and expediency didn't come into play at all.
On what I plan to do for the rest of my time: I wanted to work in a displacement camp if possible and it looks like I will be able to do that, hopefully by next week at the latest. I'm not quite sure where yet. My host family would like me to go to a camp in Nyeri where they are from (and where they probably feel they can keep an eye on me) but Nyeri also seems to be the hot spot of anti-western sentiment as they don't want to the U.S. or Britain to interfere with Kibaki's government. So there's a little more investigation to be done.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
burnt houses and hope
We arrived back from our safari to Western Kenya yesterday. The trip is pretty terrible (8 hours, bumpy roads, a lot of dust) even when one is still (relatively) young so I have to congratulate my parents for being such good sports. The trip was good. There were no problems but we did see a lot of evidence of the violence in the recent past- burnt houses and cars, material by the roads that was probably used for roadblocks and the military presence was more than I've seen before. Seeing the people I don't remember from when I was two, people I've only seen in pictures, was amazing. (Perhaps more explanation is necessary). My aunt (a nurse) and uncle (a doctor) worked in Kenya at a Quaker hospital in Western Kenya from 1976-1979. My parents and I visited them in 1978 when I was two. This time around we were lucky enough to be hosted by they playmate of my cousins from 30 years ago. He was 7 years old when they left and now has a family of his own (in one house: Alex, his wife Christine, their 2 daughters Elizabeth-9 and Cynthia- 7, Alex's mother Jenipha, Alex's sister, Mary and her son Memba- 14). They made wonderful dinners and showed us all around to the places my parents and my aunt and uncle were before. We visited the hospital (we were warmly welcomed and 2 women there were working back in the 70s- Timina and Alice, and remembered my aunt and uncle). Timina worked in the 'kitchen' at the hospital and insisted that my uncle hired her and extracted promises from us that we would greet him and thank him again. We also saw the lab at the hospital- which my uncle tried in vain to put in place while he was there.
Best of all though was a trip to the shamba (farm) of the woman who was my cousins' caretaker. Her name is Ridah, she's about 67 and now runs her farm by herself since her husband has died and her children are often seeking their fortunes in cities. I have a weakness for elderly women and this woman makes you happy just seeing her. When we got to her shamba she was not there. We were unable to reach her beforehand so she didn't know we were coming or even that we were in the country. The neighbors and our guide and driver (James and Godfrey) went off in search of her, found her at the village center and brought her back telling her nothing about who her visitors were. When she got out of the car she was shouting for joy and ran over and hugged me - I can't even explain how happy that moment was. In fact, she didn't know exactly who we were- I think she thought I was my cousin for a time but she was SO happy and we were also so happy... We went through pictures with her and explained who we were (there were pictures of my aunt, uncle, cousins and even me on her wall) and she seem to be beside herself with joy. Before we knew it she had sent someone to fetch sodas and slaughtered a chicken for us to eat. We spent the next few hours on her farm, relaxing on the grass, eating, talking with her. It was one of the best experiences I've ever had.
I hope to go back once more before I leave. I also hope that Alex's children can perhaps come as exchange students to the U.S. sometime.
My parents leave tomorrow which is sad- we've had such a nice time together and it's nice to have people to help show around this beautiful country.
Best of all though was a trip to the shamba (farm) of the woman who was my cousins' caretaker. Her name is Ridah, she's about 67 and now runs her farm by herself since her husband has died and her children are often seeking their fortunes in cities. I have a weakness for elderly women and this woman makes you happy just seeing her. When we got to her shamba she was not there. We were unable to reach her beforehand so she didn't know we were coming or even that we were in the country. The neighbors and our guide and driver (James and Godfrey) went off in search of her, found her at the village center and brought her back telling her nothing about who her visitors were. When she got out of the car she was shouting for joy and ran over and hugged me - I can't even explain how happy that moment was. In fact, she didn't know exactly who we were- I think she thought I was my cousin for a time but she was SO happy and we were also so happy... We went through pictures with her and explained who we were (there were pictures of my aunt, uncle, cousins and even me on her wall) and she seem to be beside herself with joy. Before we knew it she had sent someone to fetch sodas and slaughtered a chicken for us to eat. We spent the next few hours on her farm, relaxing on the grass, eating, talking with her. It was one of the best experiences I've ever had.
I hope to go back once more before I leave. I also hope that Alex's children can perhaps come as exchange students to the U.S. sometime.
My parents leave tomorrow which is sad- we've had such a nice time together and it's nice to have people to help show around this beautiful country.
Monday, February 11, 2008
blog comments
I don't really understand how I missed it but I just noticed all the blog comments today and wanted to tell you all how nice it was to read those today and I hope I'll get more soon.
I also wanted to mention that there was a big article in one of the newspapers here on Sat.- it was a big picture of Bush (looking as if he were admonishing someone) and the article was about how there were rumors that if the Kenyans didn't reach some sort of agreement soon the U.S. would step in and set up a government because Kenya is so strategic on our "war against terror" etc... There was also mention that Nairobi is the suspected headquarters of the CIA in Africa. The writing was very conspiratorial but I wouldn't put it past us either....
Thank you again Tim, Shira, Jamie, Barbara, Margaret, Fruz and all the others that have commented!
I also wanted to mention that there was a big article in one of the newspapers here on Sat.- it was a big picture of Bush (looking as if he were admonishing someone) and the article was about how there were rumors that if the Kenyans didn't reach some sort of agreement soon the U.S. would step in and set up a government because Kenya is so strategic on our "war against terror" etc... There was also mention that Nairobi is the suspected headquarters of the CIA in Africa. The writing was very conspiratorial but I wouldn't put it past us either....
Thank you again Tim, Shira, Jamie, Barbara, Margaret, Fruz and all the others that have commented!
"A visitor is like a river"
"Like a river because it comes and goes quickly and your only chance to be with it, to give something is to give it now". So says my host Mary when she was explaining why she bought freshly slaughtered goat for my father to have for lunch because he happened to mention that he liked goat yesterday evening. I was questioning her because we were cooked and served a totally different meal than the others (kids and staff) at the center (the center staff thought that the regular meal- beans and what my dad calls 'field corn' - not sweet corn- was too 'hard' for us).
Egypt was wonderful but it was also wonderful to come back to Kenya and show my parents around and have them meet all the wonderful people I've met here. It was a bit jarring to go from volunteering here to walk into a 5-star hotel and become a typical tourist. It was amazing to see all the ancient sites we did, to have such a long time to be with my parents and talk about all I've experienced. It was also nice to have a change of food although I really do enjoy the food here. I feel it's particularly lucky that we made it here as most of the people on our tour (as well as people back home) were discouraging us from coming here. Of course, there are many things to be concerned about here in Kenya and I don't expect problems here to be resolved quickly things (bit by tiny bit) seem to be moving in a peaceful direction and as always- the area we are staying in is safe.
Yesterday we had a bit of a touristy day here and my parents went to the game park and saw (among many other animals) a cheetah which is very rare. We also went to the giraffe center which is a non-profit educating Kenya's youth about conservation. We got to feed giraffes which was quite fun (their tongues are very scratchy). Today we visited the two centers and the clinic at which I have been volunteering. The children sang many songs for us and were adorable as usual.
Providing no major changes have occurred as far as safety on the roads (which is improved) we will travel to Kimos tomorrow to visit the area and people that my parents met their first (and mine) time in Kenya 30 years ago. We will return Fri. so it's unlikely that I will be able to write again until Saturday.
I hope everyone reading this is well. I miss my friends and family.
Egypt was wonderful but it was also wonderful to come back to Kenya and show my parents around and have them meet all the wonderful people I've met here. It was a bit jarring to go from volunteering here to walk into a 5-star hotel and become a typical tourist. It was amazing to see all the ancient sites we did, to have such a long time to be with my parents and talk about all I've experienced. It was also nice to have a change of food although I really do enjoy the food here. I feel it's particularly lucky that we made it here as most of the people on our tour (as well as people back home) were discouraging us from coming here. Of course, there are many things to be concerned about here in Kenya and I don't expect problems here to be resolved quickly things (bit by tiny bit) seem to be moving in a peaceful direction and as always- the area we are staying in is safe.
Yesterday we had a bit of a touristy day here and my parents went to the game park and saw (among many other animals) a cheetah which is very rare. We also went to the giraffe center which is a non-profit educating Kenya's youth about conservation. We got to feed giraffes which was quite fun (their tongues are very scratchy). Today we visited the two centers and the clinic at which I have been volunteering. The children sang many songs for us and were adorable as usual.
Providing no major changes have occurred as far as safety on the roads (which is improved) we will travel to Kimos tomorrow to visit the area and people that my parents met their first (and mine) time in Kenya 30 years ago. We will return Fri. so it's unlikely that I will be able to write again until Saturday.
I hope everyone reading this is well. I miss my friends and family.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
jumping high, singing loudly
I want to start this blog off on a positive note.... and I think that I haven't yet mentioned that when we were at the Masai village on our safari the men danced for us and the dancing included A LOT of jumping vertically. It was explained to us then that although in general you had to pay 10 cows to get a wife, if you jumped the REALLY HIGH you got one for free! Many of the tribes and clans have particular rituals for dowries which are still in practice (although in the cities, the cash value of a set number of cows is sometimes acceptable).
As for singing loudly, it seems to be a factor in singing "well" here... my host family sometimes wants to sing after dinner (usual hymns) but it can be a bit overwhelming- the sheer volume and disinterest in melody.... but I say that a bit in jest because I've heard several people singing to themselves and it can be beautiful (although it's often still loud- even at 6am).
The less positive part is of course the continuing violence. I'm sure the killing of one of the members of parliament this morning is not going to help. Yesterday afternoon I went with some family members to the land where they grew up and where many of their relatives still reside- Nyeri. It is in the Central District and pretty overwhelmingly Kikuyu and therefore considered safe. One of the reasons we went there though was to see how Mary's brother is doing. He was attacked and expelled from his land in the Rift Valley (he has a large cut on his head and was shot by an arrow in the arm, beaten and left for dead but his friends found him). To hear him tell the story was absolutely heart-wrenching and as soon as you hear it you KNOW that the people who did that to him (they went to steal his cows after they left him but were unsuccessful) are using the clashes as an excuse to steal and just... be awful. It's hard to know what to say. The family wanted me to counsel him - they're worried about him. I spoke to him for some time and I had him go over the story and we talked about normal phases a bit. I can't imagine I did much for him - but I'm sure his sister bringing him food and people just BEING there for him was helpful. May your thoughts be with Kenya- a beautiful country but one with many needy people even without the threat of violence.
I will be in Egypt from tomorrow until Feb 9th and am not sure if I'll have access to blog so please don't worry if you don't here from me until the 11th or so.
As for singing loudly, it seems to be a factor in singing "well" here... my host family sometimes wants to sing after dinner (usual hymns) but it can be a bit overwhelming- the sheer volume and disinterest in melody.... but I say that a bit in jest because I've heard several people singing to themselves and it can be beautiful (although it's often still loud- even at 6am).
The less positive part is of course the continuing violence. I'm sure the killing of one of the members of parliament this morning is not going to help. Yesterday afternoon I went with some family members to the land where they grew up and where many of their relatives still reside- Nyeri. It is in the Central District and pretty overwhelmingly Kikuyu and therefore considered safe. One of the reasons we went there though was to see how Mary's brother is doing. He was attacked and expelled from his land in the Rift Valley (he has a large cut on his head and was shot by an arrow in the arm, beaten and left for dead but his friends found him). To hear him tell the story was absolutely heart-wrenching and as soon as you hear it you KNOW that the people who did that to him (they went to steal his cows after they left him but were unsuccessful) are using the clashes as an excuse to steal and just... be awful. It's hard to know what to say. The family wanted me to counsel him - they're worried about him. I spoke to him for some time and I had him go over the story and we talked about normal phases a bit. I can't imagine I did much for him - but I'm sure his sister bringing him food and people just BEING there for him was helpful. May your thoughts be with Kenya- a beautiful country but one with many needy people even without the threat of violence.
I will be in Egypt from tomorrow until Feb 9th and am not sure if I'll have access to blog so please don't worry if you don't here from me until the 11th or so.
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